Fashion Week has now drawn to a close this season; read on for our review of three of Paris’s stand-out shows: Roland Mouret, Lanvin and Valentino.
Famed for his sculptural silhouettes and panelled designs, Roland Mouret
chose to stray away from seasonal trends and instead focus on refining the aesthetic that he has made his name upon.
Using an array of materials including leather, tweed, mesh, feathers and lace, the designer expertly created streamlined dresses, demure pencil skirts and softly structured jackets. For Autumn/Winter 2014, the silhouettes have been designed to softly skim the body rather than the severe body-conscious looks of past collections.
Inspired by his days as a stylist, Mouret combines an array of textures and prints in his designs; creating collages akin to the way he would once style editorial shoots. Statement black leather collars featured on every look, tying the collection together.
Ooh la la! Alber Elbaz perfectly encapsulated the spirit of fashion for yet another exquisite collection celebrating femininity.
Classic French glamour met contemporary eveningwear, by way of Edwardian grand designs and 1920s flapper girls in a collection that Elbaz aptly named ‘Triple X’: Xtravagant, Xtreme and Xperiment.
A predominantly dark colour palette was mirrored in the execution of the show; the model’s faces case into shadow to place the focus firmly on the garments they wore. Highlights of dove grey and blush offered a romantic side to the collection.
Dresses are always the highlight of Elbaz’s presentations, this time portrayed in an array of fabrics including pleated leather, duchesse satin, feathers, fur and tweed. Seductive slips followed silk gowns, feather puff-balls and structured brocade designs. Feather plumed hats completed the collection with aplomb.
At first glance, Valentino’s
Autumn/Winter 2014 collection seemed to be an eclectic fusion of unrelated prints; ranging from optical florals to harlequin motifs, delicate butterflies and birds and metallic floral brocades. Looking closer, the silhouettes and styles depicted throughout linked the collection together, drawing upon the feminine design staples that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have become renowned for.
There were plenty of the cute collared dresses that Alexa Chung favours (both mini skater styles and midi-length chiffon designs), a host of embroidered ethereal gowns, a diverse array of elegant capes and a selection of beautiful coats, available in prints to accompany the dresses.
The ever-desirable bags and shoes also came in matching prints; block heeled boots, courts and ankle-strap sandals looking particularly striking in geometric prints whilst shoulder bags and clutches appeared in the predominant red and green hues of the collection.