London Fashion Week has concluded for another season. As we wait in anticipation for Milan, read our review of the Matthew Williamson and Markus Lupfer collections for Spring Summer 2014.
The Matthew Williamson girl has well and truly grown up; the Manchester-born designer’s Spring Summer collection showcased the wardrobe of a glamorous bohemian girl who meant business.
Ornate cocktail dresses were as ever present, albeit silhouettes are now more structured; creating a demure aesthetic amongst the hand-painted prints, delicate embellishments and flashes of neon hues.
The collection seemed to present the question: what would Williamson’s sun-loving Ibiza girl wear in the city? Her boho luxe style shone through, with vibrant shades of tangerine, cerulean, lime and fuchsia injected onto silk shirts, tailored cropped trousers and waist-cinching belts featuring dragonfly motifs.
Decorative high-waisted pencil skirts nipped in silhouettes, instantly glamorising the subtly printed T-shirts with which they were teamed. Embroidered jackets were neatly cropped, offering welcome alternatives to summer office wear.
Floor-sweeping gowns closed the catwalk; sheer designs embellished with delicate crystals and elaborate floral motifs; though these were just as suited for elegant champagne bars as for sultry Ibiza nights.
This new direction wasn’t solely restricted to Williamson’s collection – Markus Lupfer cast aside the sequin embellished merino wool jumpers for which he is renowned and presented his new take on pretty for Spring Summer 2014.
Inspiration came from teenage girls of the 1990s, the childhood era of the majority of Lupfer’s customers. Repetitive prints featured cute kittens and wallpaper florals; a patchwork ditsy print drew influence from the designer’s very own childhood bedspread.
Silhouettes were simple; A-line skirts, tailored trousers, boxy T-shirts, shift dresses and cropped jackets kept the focus on the prints whilst offering easy-to-wear garments that were easily styled.
A feminine colour palette of soft pastel pink, chambray denim, dove grey and crisp white further enhanced the childhood era that Lupfer referenced in his designs.
Ensuring that sweet didn’t become saccharine, rebellious slogans emblazoned jumpers and T-shirts; ‘Loser’, ‘Jerk’ and ‘Lame’ revealing that this teenage girl had a rebellious streak.