BRAND DIVE: BURBERRY

BRAND DIVE: BURBERRY

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Brand Dive:

 The Making of Burberry

Rain in its roots and defiance in its tailoring. This is how Burberry became a Great British obsession.

AUTHOR: MELISA RUSTEMOVA 12.12.25

London, 1856. Thomas Burberry, a young draper with a stubborn dislike for soggy clothes, opened a small shop and set out to solve Britain’s oldest problem: the weather. A small beginning that would eventually anchor the entire Burberry history timeline. No fanfare, no grand manifesto, just a belief that outerwear could work harder and look better. His answer was gabardine: a quiet revolution in fabric form, built to defy rain, wind, and the general moodiness of the British sky.

The effect was immediate. Explorers wore it to the ends of the earth, officers marched in it, civilians adopted it because it simply refused to let them down. Before the fame, before the Burberry check, before fashion week cameras ever flickered; the Burberry trench coat had already become a symbol, functional, iconic, unmistakably British.

Burberry didn’t set out to be a luxury house. It became one by redefining what practical could look like. A brand shaped by weather, elevated by culture, and always ready for its next reinvention.

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1. Shaped by Weather, Worn by the World

Burberry didn’t begin with a catwalk moment; it began with a fabric that behaved better than the British weather ever has. Gabardine (light, breathable, weatherproof) arrived like a quiet revelation. Suddenly a Burberry raincoat wasn’t outerwear, it was a strategy. A “Rain? Not my problem” kind of move .

Explorers latched on immediately. Sir Ernest Shackleton heading into Antarctic freeze. Captain Robert Falcon Scott marching towards the South Pole. Both wrapped in Burberry, both relying on gabardine like it was another crew member. If fabric could have grit, this would be Exhibit A.

Then came the trenches. Burberry was asked to kit out officers in the First World War, and the modern Burberry trench coat took shape under actual fire. Epaulettes for rank, D-rings for gear, storm flaps for survival. Function first, style accidentally iconic.

And just as the coat was becoming legend, the house gave itself a face. The Equestrian Knight, introduced in 1901 with the motto Prorsum, meaning “forward.” A symbol of purpose and motion long before the modern Burberry logo ever existed. A whole identity in one galloping emblem.

By the ‘30s, Burberry wasn’t simply making coats. It was making icons: outerwear engineered for rain, war, ice, adventure and everything in between.

The Coat of an Era 

Post-war Britain fell hard for the trench. Once military issue. Now marching through Piccadilly like it ran the place. The country needed a uniform that didn’t crumble at the sight of drizzle: Burberry volunteered as tribute. Hollywood, naturally, fanned the flame. Cue Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca: trench collar up and eyes full of heartbreak. Did it cement the coat as the star of every rain-soaked goodbye scene for the next 50 years? Absolutely. By the ‘50s, the trench was the outfit for the “Brit abroad”: journalists, diplomats, men with suitcases full of opinions. Understated. Reliable. Quietly impressive. Think early “quiet luxury,” but with actual mud resistance. Then the ‘60s arrived like, “What if we made this glamorous?” Suddenly the trench was wrapped around Audrey Hepburn, seen on a strolling Brigitte Bardot, breezing through Paris and London like it had personally invented chic.

And then came the moment no one saw coming: the Burberry check stepping out from behind the curtain. In 1967, a Paris store employee wrapped some luggage (and later an umbrella) in the familiar lining, and just like that, the check went from “inner detail” to “main character.” The brand leaned in, weaving the pattern into early ads, accessories, and the first Burberry scarf drops, gentle steps toward the global icon it would soon become.

By the ‘70s , Burberry wasn’t just British fashion. It was British culture. A coat that came from trenches, conquered Hollywood, flirted through the ‘60s, and still looked perfect in a downpour.

Check Goes Mainstream 

By the ‘80s , the Burberry check had decided it was done being polite. After decades hiding inside coat linings, it burst into the spotlight. One look and you knew exactly what you were seeing. Music videos, magazine covers, high streets, Heathrow. The check was everywhere. Footballers wore it like a badge of honour. It wasn’t just a pattern; it was a personality: bold, British, a little chaotic, absolutely unforgettable. Then came the glamour. Princess Diana wrapped herself in Burberry outerwear, proving the check could do elegance just as easily as everyday. A young Kate Moss folded it into London’s cool-girl uniform, introducing a new era of Britpop swagger. The check could be aristocratic at breakfast and punk rock by nightfall, a true shapeshifter.

Film icons like Sean Connery and Michael Caine dressed in Burberry on and off screen, embedding the trench further into global pop culture. Paparazzi shots, award-season dressing, Burberry became the unofficial uniform of the British elite. Accessories joined the fun. The Burberry scarf became winter’s unofficial starter pack; check-trim bags turned into instant identifiers; early Burberry ‘vintage’ bags earned “future collector” status before the term even existed.

But fame has a habit of testing boundaries. As the ‘90s rolled in, the check hit peak visibility. Adored, copied, misused, mythologised. Too popular? Too recognisable? Too everywhere? Yes. And that’s exactly why this chapter matters. Burberry had reached cultural saturation, which meant it was primed for transformation.

And this era set the stage for Burberry’s supermodel moment; Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, and later Cara Delevingne would push the brand fully into fashion‑celebrity mythology.

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1. The Rebirth of Burberry

Enter the ‘00s. Burberry had heritage for days but was in need of redirection. Enter Christopher Bailey. He didn't just reimagine the house. He rewired its soul.

Bailey didn’t rebuild Burberry on noise; he created a new feeling. His runways played like love letters. From the London fog to its poetry and music, the story is stitched with nods to backstreets, subcultures, and the city’s quiet contradictions.

He made fashion week warmer, and more human - opening shows with live performances from emerging British musicians, like James Bay (who later became a face), and turning the brand into a cultural heartbeat rather than just a fashion house. And when the digital era came calling, Burberry was already there. Bailey championed live-streamed shows, social-first storytelling, and a website that felt more like an experience than a storefront. Before “omnichannel” was a buzzword, Burberry was doing it in real time.

The clothes floated; they were softened and modernised. Trenches relaxed. Tailoring became poetic. The check returned: edited, elegant, and alive. Accessories blossomed into icons: oversized scarves, sculptural trenches, bags that felt both familiar and completely new. And then came the weather shows, Bailey’s party trick. Digital storms, wind machines, and rain that fell on cue. He turned the runway into its own micro-climate, proving Burberry didn’t just make outerwear; it could make the British weather feel cinematic.

 And then there was the moment that defined Burberry rebirth: Autumn/Winter 2014, when models glided down the runway in personalised ponchos. Luxury made intimate; modernity made romantic. Bailey’s Burberry wasn’t chasing celebrity; it attracted artists, actors, and musicians because the clothes felt like theirs.

Rose Huntington-Whiteley in navy silk slip

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This period also marked Burberry’s rise across Hollywood red carpets, Beyoncé, Rihanna, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Emma Watson became unofficial ambassadors, weaving Burberry into the global celebrity landscape. Campaigns like From London With Love didn’t just tell a story: they broke into a full dance number. With a twelve-year-old Romeo Beckham stealing the spotlight, it served mini-movie magic: big choreography, bigger charm, and enough London sparkle to light up the West End. A sharp pivot into emotional, theatrical, utterly watchable storytelling that made everyone else’s campaigns look, well… a bit beige.

Innovation followed, sometimes unexpectedly. In 2016, Burberry broke the fashion calendar with its ‘See Now, Buy Now’ format, offering runway pieces immediately after the show, a bold move that made the entire industry rethink its timelines. And in one of his final, most emotional acts, Bailey introduced the Rainbow Check in 2018. A tribute to the LGBTQ+ community woven straight into Burberry’s most sacred motif.

Through the ‘00s and ‘10s, Burberry didn’t just look alive; it felt alive. A house of craftsmanship and emotion, nostalgia and newness, London grit and London grace. And in doing so, the world remembered exactly why the brand mattered in the first place.

Kendall Jenner in black skirt, Burberry logo jacket and clutch

1. Sharp Lines, New Codes

When Riccardo Tisci arrived at Burberry, the brand didn’t so much pivot as snap into a new rhythm. The misty romance of the Bailey years gave way to something steelier. Britishness with a harder edge, a faster pulse, and a distinctly London swagger. The first sign? A complete visual shake-up. Overnight, the old serif logo vanished, replaced by a crisp, modern stamp crafted by Peter Saville. Clean. Graphic. Unapologetically contemporary. And alongside it, the TB Monogram, suddenly everywhere, suddenly essential, the new face of the house.

Tisci treated heritage like raw clay: slicing, sculpting, rebuilding. Trenches grew streamlined. Tailoring sharpened. Eveningwear flirted with streetwear. Even the classic Burberry spring coat got technical upgrades and late-night energy.

His runways felt like London after dark: seductive, restless, a bit dangerous. And the Spring/Summer 2020 show cemented Tisci’s Burberry reign perfectly: chain-link details, fluid dresses offset by razor suiting, metallics glinting under club-light shimmer. It was Burberry reimagined for people who move quickly and dress accordingly.

Then came the pandemic, when runways reinvented themselves. Tisci staged shows in forests, on water, under open sky. It felt like a high-fashion nature documentary with a London soundtrack. Experimental, atmospheric, impossible to ignore. Burberry wasn’t performing for a room of editors anymore; it was performing for the world.

This era generated some of the most widely shared Burberry campaigns in modern memory: the viral Festive 2020 street‑dance routine; the gravity‑defying Open Spaces 2021 film; and Night Creatures 2022, with dancers confronting a surreal multi‑limbed beast on London streets. Tisci’s Burberry also drew in a new wave of global ambassadors including Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner.

 By the end of his tenure, the house was leaner, sharper, more cosmopolitan. The logo was new, the monogram was everywhere, and the brand had stepped confidently into digital-first luxury, from livestreamed runways to entire collections built for a generation raised on street-lux codes.

Man in black suit with a poncho sporting the Burberry Knight

1. British Style: Reimagined in Blue

After years of playing it safe in beige, Burberry was ready for a jolt. Enter Daniel Lee. Suddenly the house had its heritage spark back; loud, proud and unapologetically blue. Overnight, the neutrals stepped aside. In their place: an electric, punchy, impossible-to-miss Burberry blue. Not a trend. A statement.

Next came 2023's visual identity reset: clarifying Lee's vision for the house. The Equestrian Knight, long tucked away in Burberry’s archives, roared back in a modernised form, restored as the brand’s heroic emblem. It wasn’t heritage for nostalgia’s sake; it was heritage sharpened. Paired with refreshed type and Lee’s newfound blue, Burberry suddenly looked unified, focused, and ready for its next chapter.

Lee’s AW23 debut sealed the deal. Mohair in wild colours, supersized scarves you could practically sleep under, buttery shearling - the whole thing felt like British eccentricity dialled up and spun through a luxury lens. And the trench? No longer a polite wardrobe essential. Lee blew it up, stretched it out, dipped it in colour and returned it to the runway with a swagger it hadn’t had in decades.

Anna Wintour next to a medieval knight.

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The Knight didn’t just come back, he took over. Burberry Prorsum put the Equestrian Knight design front and centre, flanked by very British roses, swans, and a cast that ranged from Skepta and Raheem Sterling to the legendary Vanessa Redgrave. From there, the EKD started popping up everywhere: on bags, outerwear, hardware. Even on sculptural totes and those playful, “yes this is absolutely Burberry” beach bags. Heritage, but rebooted. Not dusty. Not sentimental. Just electric.

Craft has become a pillar of Lee’s era: thick knits, tactile mohair, exaggerated textures and country-meets-city silhouettes that feel unmistakably British. You can see the Yorkshire mills, the grey skies, the muddy fields, but also the London underground, the night buses, and the humour. Lee’s Burberry has character.

And the runways? Alive again. Gone were the neutral backdrops; in their place came surreal sets and cinematic pacing. A coat didn’t just keep you warm, it told a story.

Lee didn’t just refresh Burberry. He lit a match and watched it spark. Suddenly, the house was buzzing with campaign stars: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Olivia Dean, Little Simz, the return of Naomi Campbell. The kind of names that turn a heritage house into a cultural headline. Under Lee, Burberry wasn’t just back; it was booked and busy.

Then came the campaigns. It’s Always Burberry Weather reintroduced the classics with a wink: sweeping British skies, big iconic coats, and a healthy dose of national sarcasm. Not a storm, just a runway-level disruption. It was London Through Burberry Eyes that really set the tone. A love letter to London: loud, messy, romantic, and gloriously unfiltered, with Olivia Colman front and centre. A genius casting choice, Colman is pure British warmth and wit, dishing out fish and chips, giving cheeky tours through puddled streets, and casually scoffing ice cream with Tyson Beckford, because, well… of course she is. Then there’s the utterly iconic silent fishing vignette with Cole Palmer. Nine minutes. A lake. Perfect Burberry outerwear. He sits, he fishes, he fiddles with his coat, and somehow becomes the most soothing thing on the internet. Calm, patient, dry British humour, all rolled into one viral, “did that really just happen?” moment.

The brilliance? Every vignette is a mini short film, cinematic, absurdly relatable, and unapologetically British. The campaign struts out a parade of talent: Barry Keoghan, Aimee Lou Wood, Lucky Blue Smith, each bringing their own dollop of charisma and cheek. Lee’s Burberry isn’t just showing clothes; it’s serving character, humour, and that unmistakable British swagger we can’t get enough of.

This campaign pushed Burberry into a new era: cinematic, inclusive, and confident enough to laugh at itself. This isn’t Burberry revived. It’s Burberry recharged.

A Legacy in Motion

Across 150 years, Burberry has pulled off a magic trick most brands can only dream of: staying unmistakably Burberry while constantly changing its mind. Every era left its fingerprint. The explorers who pushed gabardine to its limits. The post-war civilians who treated the trench like everyday armour. The Britpop kids who turned the Burberry bag and Burberry scarf into cultural shorthand. The digital revolution that let Burberry broadcast its shows to every corner of the internet. The return of the Equestrian Knight, the electric-blue reboot, the outerwear that morphed from the classic trench to the modern Burberry spring women’s coat. Even the accessories built their own lore, from street-leaning Burberry man’s bag styles to the brand’s first lifestyle leap with Burberry perfume.

And the through-line? Not a logo. Not a check. A mindset. Burberry moves forward (always) with a kind of effortless British shrug that says, “Yes, it’s raining. No, we’re not stopping.”

A house shaped by weather.
A symbol of British style.
A legacy that refuses to sit still.


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