You understand women’s bodies so well. What was it that gave you the insight and confidence to create these pieces?
I worked for Narciso Rodriguez in New York for two different phases of my career, and he is like a nano-surgeon when it comes to fit and very very strong in bodycon, so I think I knew my way around curves for a long time. I think I’m also a bit of a psychopath about fit - it has to be perfect, and it has to be sharp and precise and clean and flattering, and I think that comes from my training. Then also I’m trained as an architect, so I’m obsessed with sculpture and the quality of a curve and all these things. It’s really that you know clothing is there to enhance the body, so it’s just always about sculpting everything to do the right thing.
Fashion feels to be – more so than ever - obsessed with a throwback to the past. How much do you look to the Mugler archives?
Every season part of the process is that we start doing our research, in which we set ourselves a bit of direction, and then we make a pull from the archive and bring it to the office and try it on. I don’t ever want to copy him - I want to refer back to it and it’s quite a luxury because there is so much, and it is so exciting that I feel like I have access to that and no one else does. I’m inspired by a million other things, and I think it’s really the smashing together of very different things that makes something new.
How have the past 18 months changed things?
Designing spring/summer 21, which ended up turning into the film, was the weirdest season because we all designed it right at the beginning of confinement, all from our homes. It was a very very clear season because there was so much time to think. We had everything photoshopped in all the colours before we even started making it. We’re never that ready. It taught us a bit about streamlining and being clearer but it’s also when we decided to completely flip how the brand functions and go to this see-now-buy-now system so that we’re pre-producing and everything’s ready three months before anyone really sees it.