THE WAYS WE'VE WORN IT, AND WHY

Jewellery has been part of human self-expression for over 100,000 years - long before Instagram likes or red-carpet moments. Early pieces, like the perforated shell beads from South Africa’s Blombos Cave, weren’t just decoration. They marked identity, belonging, and sometimes even offered a bit of spiritual protection. Crafted from shells, bone, teeth, and stone, these were more about meaning than sparkle - though even then, people were thinking about shape, finish, and how pieces sat on the body, the very basics of what we now call cut and clarity.

By 40,000 BCE, jewellery was widespread in Europe and Asia, woven into rituals, beliefs, and social hierarchies. The rise of metalworking between 9,000 and 3,000 BCE introduced copper, gold, and silver, enabling more intricate, lasting designs. In Mesopotamia and Egypt, jewellery became shorthand for power - the original flex. Over time, techniques like gemstone cutting and mass production made adornment both more accessible and expressive: a personal statement, a cultural symbol, and sometimes, a hint of rebellion.

Today, our fascination hasn’t dimmed. From ancient talismans rubbing shoulders with Y2K sparkle to heirloom gold sitting next to experimental materials, jewellery keeps remixing itself. But there’s more to a great piece than meets the eye. Understanding cut (how the stone’s shaped), colour (its hue and depth), clarity (blemishes or inclusions), metals, and even clasps make a real difference - you’ll spot quality at a glance and know your jewellery will last as long as your love for it.

In 1957, 17-year-old Vivienne Westwood traded the rolling fields of Derbyshire for the grit of London, enrolling at Harrow Art School to study fashion. She later said, “I didn’t like it, we had to draw all the time, and I wanted to make clothes.” After a term, she bailed, swapping fashion for silversmithing to learn jewellery-making - a brief stint that would remain her only formal training in design for life.

Vivienne’s work has always had one foot in the past. When she opened her King’s Road boutique in 1971, she didn’t just sell clothes or trinkets - she reimagined what jewellery could be. Chains and chicken bones dangled from slogan tees, not unlike the charms of our prehistoric cousins, while pearls and crowns gave a wink to tradition with a rebel twist. Serious, subversive, unmistakably British: Westwood’s jewellery was always part of the bigger picture.

From prehistoric charms to punk chains, Westwood’s pieces trace a lineage of rebellion and elegance. Her jewellery tells stories that span centuries, yet somehow always feel urgently of the moment. Vivienne didn’t just make things to wear; she made things to think with, argue with, and occasionally shock your mum.

Yves Saint Laurent was a trailblazing French designer whose talent extended far beyond clothes into jewellery that still turns heads. Born in North Africa in 1936, he had a keen eye for global motifs - African, Asian, Indian - which set him apart from the more buttoned-up French houses. After a meteoric rise at Dior in the late 1950s, he launched his own label in 1961 and by 1965 had unveiled his first jewellery collection, designed to complement his ready-to-wear. Early pieces were lively and unexpected, mixing wood, glass, enamel, and leather with metal.

In the 1970s, YSL jewellery became known for oversized, statement pieces with organic shapes and rich materials such as gold, silver, and semi-precious stones. Iconic designs from the decade include the tassel pendant “Loulou” necklace and the culturally inspired “Opium” necklace. Muse and collaborator Loulou de La Falaise played a key role in shaping the house’s jewellery.

In the 1980s and 1990s, the style shifted from minimalist lines, like the “Belle de Jour” bracelet, to statement cuffs and logo-driven chains. Through it all, YSL’s jewellery stayed unmistakably bold. Today, vintage pieces are collectors’ favourites and continue to spark inspiration across the fashion world.

Before the brand, there was a boy in northern Italy, 1932, watching costumes sweep the stage. Valentino Garavani learned early on that fabric commands attention - and that jewellery should not be overlooked. By the 1960s, he was matching jewels to couture and ready-to-wear, turning blooms, fruits, and beasts into gold-and-crystal statements meant to last all year.

Crafted by renowned European costume jewellery houses like Coppola e Toppo, Hurel, and the Soriano sisters, these often-limited-edition pieces debuted on the runway and are now coveted by collectors. Valentino jewels have graced Hollywood legends such as Audrey Hepburn and Julia Roberts, modern icons like Rihanna and Zendaya, and royals including Princess Margaret and Princess Caroline of Monaco, blending red-carpet glamour with regal elegance.

On the runway, Valentino jewellery dazzles in classic tones of gold, silver, and black, punctuated with bold enamel or semi-precious stones. And of course, a signature pop of “Valentino Red” appears in the most unexpected places, carrying a touch of Valentino charm wherever it goes.

Founded in Florence in 1921, Gucci began as a maker of fine leather goods before becoming one of fashion’s most recognisable names. From the outset, the brand understood the power of a good symbol. The Interlocking G, drawn from founder Guccio Gucci’s initials, became a shorthand for luxury and later appeared across jewellery, from gold pendants to heavy chain bracelets designed to be noticed without trying too hard.

The Horsebit followed in the late 1940s, borrowed from equestrian hardware and first made famous by the Horsebit loafer in 1953. It proved just as effective off the foot, turning up in bracelets, rings and necklaces that balanced heritage with everyday wearability. By the 1970s and 80s, Gucci leaned into scale and confidence, producing bold jewellery that matched the era’s appetite for excess.

Not all Gucci jewellery plays it safe. At various points, the house has used runway jewellery to push mood rather than product - including skeletal and bone-inspired pieces designed for impact rather than permanence. These dramatic accents sit outside the core collections, serving as visual punctuation and a reminder that Gucci has never been afraid to test boundaries.

Founded in Rome in 1925, Fendi evolved from a leather and fur workshop into a global fashion force after Karl Lagerfeld joined in 1965. His impact was immediate: fur was reinvented, tradition sharpened, and the instantly recognizable “FF” logo was born - sketched, famously, in five seconds.

The Spring-Summer 1992 show in Milan marked a confident chapter in that evolution. With Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer leading the cast, the show captured the swagger of the early ’90s supermodel era. Highlights included Campbell’s two-piece look styled with statement jewellery, underscoring Lagerfeld’s knack for merging couture technique with cultural storytelling.

Seen through today’s lens, those early statement-making jewellery moments read like a blueprint. Where the early ’90s pieces were bold and expressive, openly drawing from global references. In 2026, designs channel that same confidence through sculptural silhouettes, Roman-inspired hardware, and elevated materials. The language may have shifted, but the intent, hasn’t. .

Founded in Paris in 1952 by Gaby Aghion, Chloé approached jewellery with the same restraint it applied to fashion. Introduced in the 1960s, it developed as a natural extension of the house’s bohemian ready-to-wear - intuitive rather than decorative.

Early designs reflected Chloé’s founding ideas of ease and femininity, favouring organic forms and tactile materials over conventional luxury codes.

Motifs drawn from the natural world - shells, florals, soft curves - anchored the collection, reinforcing authenticity over polish. Logos, when they appeared, were subtle and hand drawn. Designed to move with the body and sit easily alongside flowing fabrics, these early pieces established Chloé’s enduring language of relaxed, bohemian luxury.

From punk’s raw-bone provocations at Vivienne Westwood to Karl Lagerfeld’s maximalism for Fendi in ‘92, and Chloé’s organic sensibility, this exploration underscores a simple truth: our relationship with jewellery is ancient. Across time, we return to the same impulses - borrowing forms, symbols, and methods from those who came before us. Though craftsmanship evolves, jewellery’s role remains constant: to signal identity, meaning, and belonging.

Carat vs. Karat
These two often-confused terms are easy to mix up. Carat measures a gemstone’s weight - the bigger the stone, the higher the carat. Karat, on the other hand, tells you how pure gold is - 24K is pure, while 18K or 14K is blended with metals for durability and colour.

Clarity and Cut
A gem’s sparkle depends on both its clarity and cut. Clarity describes how free a stone is from tiny imperfections (the fewer inclusions, the clearer the gem). Cut is all about craftsmanship - the angles and facets determine how brilliantly a gem catches the light.

Common Jewellery Settings
Pavé: Tiny stones packed closely together for maximum shimmer - perfect for making evening pieces truly dazzle.
Bezel: A sleek metal rim wraps around the gem, giving a modern-minimal vibe while keeping it secure.
Prong & Halo: Classic prongs hold the main stone, surrounded by a halo of smaller gems for drama - ideal for rings or pendants that demand attention.

Finish, Texture & Patina
A piece isn’t just about shine - its finish and texture give it personality. Patina adds depth and character, whether it’s the soft glow of aged platinum or the handcrafted charm of silver, making every piece feel unique.