Brand Dive:
When you think of American fashion, there’s one brand that instantly comes to mind: Ralph Lauren. Defined by preppy polos and Americana aesthetics, it’s a label that has always directly reflected its birthplace – and deeply resonated with consumers as a result. Founded back in 1967 consisting of a line of handmade ties, there was no telling how far the brand would travel over the next six decades (and counting) under the watchful eye of its founder and namesake.
Born in New York City to working class, immigrant parents from Belarus, Lauren (born as Ralph Lifshitz before adopting an Americanised surname) grew up surrounded by the influences of a cosmopolitan environment. His first foray into the fashion world came in the form of a retail job, where his penchant for crafting and eye for design became clear. Following a stint as a necktie salesman, Lauren launched his own line of the accessory – named Polo – which marked the beginning of an inimitable fashion career that remains just as robust today.
One year after the Polo launch, Lauren debuted his first full menswear collection in 1968. This was when the true potential of the brand began to emerge, soon bringing womenswear with it in 1972. Cut to 1974 and star of The Great Gatsby, Robert Redford, was dressed in Ralph Lauren Polo on the silver screen. Giving the American Dream a tangible appearance, it’s no wonder that the label soon became award-winning – and continued on this trajectory. Moving against the grain in terms of silhouettes and fabrication, whilst sticking closely to Lauren’s creative vision, it has become one of the most recognisable and sought-after luxury brands on the market with its founder still firmly at the helm.
Ralph Lauren showcased his first full collection with two themes in mind: he wanted more romance, and to create pieces that made him excited. Whilst we might associate these ideas with the likes of Chloé’s dreamy boho vibe or Balenciaga’s edgy accessorising, Lauren had a different interpretation. These would be pieces that the wearer would treasure, return to, and turn heads with – think vibrant colour palettes, unconventional fabrics, and a staple logo for good measure.
Compared to his contemporaries, the likes of Yves Saint Laurent and the ‘Le Smoking’ tuxedo and Bob Mackie’s abundance of sequins, Lauren’s gentler approach to dressing – even for men – didn’t exactly seem in keeping with the zeitgeist. A more is more attitude characterised the late 60s and early 70s, which is why Ralph Lauren’s soft take on trend-led dressing captured the attention of luxury consumers – and steadily carved a path for longevity in the infamously fickle fashion industry.
In an era where fashion trends were fairly clear cut, Lauren brought something entirely different to his debut collection. A white flannel suit and dress shirts in sporty fabrics subverted consumers’ rigid idea of what formalwear could be, and established the Ralph Lauren label’s identity and niche in the process.
Before the idea of a capsule wardrobe was conceived, the Ralph Lauren brand was creating one of its very own. The same polo was available in countless hues, with timeless suiting and directional women’s tailoring riffing on a capsule of cuts and patterns. Taking cues from menswear that had already garnered plenty of attention, a more androgynous take on femininity came with an edginess of its own – whilst remaining desirable for the upper-class masses.
One of the most defining emblems of the Ralph Lauren brand is the iconic polo player, found stitched on chests and cuffs as a marker of heritage and aspiration. This little symbol initially appeared in 1971 in the first womenswear collection, resting subtly on the cuff of tailored shirts. From then on, an early form of logomania started to take hold as it worked its way up to the chest and grew in size too. It was the pony that differentiated a regular polo shirt from a Ralph Lauren polo shirt – and that distinction mattered. It wasn’t long before the top became synonymous with American style, remaining a stalwart of the United States even today.
But this was far from a one-off success for Ralph Lauren. The iconic American flag jumper, made memorable by Isabelle Townsend on the runway in 1989, has remained a staple for the brand for decades – even being touted by Lauren himself on several occasions. Its instantly recognisable motif takes us right back to the early days of the brand and the influences that created it. Right at home in Gatsby’s American Dream, it evokes a pride and confidence in its wearer that keeps it on the shelves in 2026.
Encouraging customers to place value on these types of everyday basics with a luxury flare rather than only investing in occasion wear from high end brands, Ralph Lauren played a pivotal role in how our collective sense of style evolved into the 80s and 90s.
Following the success of 1974’s Gatsby, Lauren found himself in demand for yet another feature film – one that would set the label on a trajectory that would keep people talking. Woody Allen’s 1977 film Annie Hall became defined by Diane Keaton’s trademark Ralph Lauren look, which was praised for its push towards an entirely fresh way of dressing for the American woman.
Slacks and a shirt, finished with a waistcoat and tie, formed a quintessentially Ralph Lauren look – when it came to menswear. Seeing this on Keaton “suggested a truly new and independent way of dressing,” according to writer Joan Juliet Buck at Vogue. It signalled a shift in what women’s ready-to-wear could be in one of the most widely distributed means possible.
This is a standard that the Ralph Lauren label has maintained over the decades. From Zendaya to Jennifer Lawrence, today’s A listers are frequently spotted in in the brand on their off-duty days and when attending major awards shows – for much the same reasons that film stylists were so keen on Ralph Lauren’s looks in the 70s.
When Cindy Crawford appeared on the runway for Ralph Lauren’s 1992 F/W ready-to-wear collection, there was no going back. The label had reached cult status, with enough distinctive and appealing designs in the catalogue to prove it was worthy of the attention – and far more than a fad. Each and every ready-to-wear look was polished and brimming with a youthful verve, which the supermodels of the time lent themselves perfectly to.
But if there had been any doubt surrounding Ralph Lauren’s couture capabilities, Gwyneth Paltrow’s appearance on the 1999 Oscars red carpet certainly changed that. Wearing a custom pink Ralph Lauren gown to accept her award for Shakespeare In Love, Paltrow captivated fans and fashion critics alike in the statement silhouette. It marked a moment for the Ralph Lauren label that cemented it as a brand with longevity – Lauren himself proved his creative eye spanned far beyond suiting and sportswear, in turn creating one of the most covetable and widely discussed red carpet looks to date.
2003 marked the year Ralph Lauren became the official outfitters of Wimbledon tennis, quickly emerging as one of the most widely recognised and revered partnerships in the fashion sphere. Ralph Lauren is now one of the first things you think of when someone mentions The Championships, with the brand’s campaign imagery defining the aesthetic of the tournament.
You’d be hard pressed to find a celebrity attending Wimbledon in anything other than a full Ralph Lauren look, with the ball girls and boys – as well as the line judges – kitted out in head-to-toe Polo.
Team USA, then, came as a natural fit. Since 2008, Ralph Lauren has served as the official outfitters of the national teams at the Olympic and Paralympic Games, making waves with refreshed tailoring that expertly balance practicality and polish with a timeless appeal.
Whilst the majority of heritage fashion houses can count dozens of creative directors over the years, Ralph Lauren’s comparatively recent debut puts it in an extremely unique place. Having the founder’s clear vision guiding its journey from its conception to present day brings the brand a unique personality and identity in a saturated market.
Ralph Lauren is a brand that was born from elevated practicality – handmade ties, tailored shirts, and relaxed polos with an aspirational edge. A focus on sporty fabrics could easily have placed the label into a tight box, leaning towards luxury athleisure and staying put. But Lauren’s unwavering eye for innovation with mass appeal has made it one of the most successful fashion brands in the world, and it’s showing no signs of slowing down.
By submitting your email address, you agree to receive marketing emails from FLANNELS. Click here to read our privacy policy & terms and conditions