Roses, clutter, underwear: Tora Northman takes us through the key trends for SS24.


The spring/summer shows were filled with hot topics. We saw debuts from creative directors, including Sabato de Sarno at Gucci, as well as Australian designer Christopher Esber’s first time on the Paris schedule, and departures from legends like Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen. Of course, there were also plenty of celebrity appearances of everyone from Kris Jenner to Cher. Despite sometimes feeling like a marathon, it was a season to remember with plenty of great shows, and even more great fashion. I mean, who could forget the pink and yellow smoke covering Palais de Tokyo for the Rick Owens show, FKA twigs performing at Valentino, or the fruit and berry-inspired beaded bags at Loewe.

Although Spring/Summer 2024 might seem far away, it creeps up faster than we think, so what better way to remember our favourite collections than by highlighting some of the best trends that we can’t wait to see come to life. Although Spring/Summer 2024 might seem far away, it creeps up faster than we think, so what better way to remember our favourite collections than by highlighting some of the best trends that we can’t wait to see come to life.

Keep reading to see our top picks and how you can start wearing them now.

The Bigger the Bag The Better

Mini bags, be gone! After plenty of seasons where small bags have been all the rage, we’re finally sizing up. At Bottega Veneta, the brand gave some of its most popular styles – including the Sardine bag – a makeover. The bags have been made larger and include everything from briefcases to pouches (and of course, Rihanna has already been spotted with one of the SS24 pieces). Balenciaga also followed suit, and even included totes that look just like a large suitcase, and certainly fits just as much as one. At Valentino, the label launched its new Moon Bag, which also came in a super-sized version (as well as a smaller iteration). The trend isn’t going anywhere, so it’s time we put our tiny purses on the shelf for now.

Underwear is Everything

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Trousers are officially out for SS24. On the runway, we saw plenty of short-shorts and pants, including at Miu Miu, Acne Studios, and Dries van Noten. Legs are in focus, both bare and in tights, and we’re here for it. At Dries, the pants were knitted and came in various patterns, and at Acne Studios, they were sleek and minimal.

Designer underwear is also on the cards this season, and if you’re not loving the trouser-less trend, you can still join in. Take the popular Miu Miu styling approach and let a pair peek out slightly over the hem of your trousers instead.

Coming Up Roses

“Florals? For Spring? Groundbreaking.” For SS24, flowers are without a doubt back on the map, but not just any flowers; intricate 3D roses and floral patterns were everywhere this season. At Valentino, we saw plenty of flower patterns and designs across blouses, dresses and intricate denim trousers, and at Balmain, big plastic roses had been created from recycled bottles and attached to stiff corsets, paying homage to one of Pierre Balmain’s most beloved symbols. Lastly, Sarah Burton wrapped up her final collection at Alexander McQueen by featuring two dresses that literally looked as if it was made from large rose petals, as well as a sleek white number with a red rose printed across the front. So, it seems it is time to smell the flowers.

Barely-There Fabrics

This season, it is all about sheer materials, with designers using everything from organza to delicate mesh to create the look. At Prada, dresses looked as if they were floating through thin air, and at Coperni and Givenchy, dresses revealed what was underneath. With the exposed underwear trend (still) big news for SS24, pairing a pair of big knickers with a sheer skirt might be the move for those of us who aren’t quite ready to commit fully, and the Spring collections have given us plenty of inspiration. Whether you’re sporting a long, lace skirt or a translucent slip dress, a small glimpse of leg is the key.

Clutter Couture

At Miu Miu, models walked down the runway with bags filled to the brim with everything from shoes to trinkets, and we’re all for it. SS24 is all about being prepared at all times; you always need a snack, multiple makeup products, hand sanitiser, phone chargers and more when you’re on the go – and organised chaos is our motto. Paying homage to the one and only Jane Birkin and the way she used to wear her bags, we’re inspired to start using our accessories in the way they were intended this spring. At Balenciaga, intentionally worn-in bags were showcased decorated with plenty of keychains – some referencing those you’d find in the tacky souvenir shops in Paris – as well as other accessories like keys, chains, tassels and more. At Bottega Veneta woven leather bags were showcased stuffed with rolled-up newspapers and a crumpled-up shirt, just like it would be worn on the beach. It’s finally time to let loose and drop the perfection act, which means we’re in for an unusually casual spring and summer.

Expect The Unexpected

At Miu Miu, colourful plasters proved to be one of this season’s most exciting accessories. Worn by a handful of the models, the bright-coloured stickers instantly became a talking point and something we haven’t seen on the runway before. At Balenciaga, models carried what looked like shoes, but turned out to be bags. At Coperni, Naomi Campbell wore the AI pin by Humane – the accessory that is on a mission to fully replace our smartphones. “Humane’s Ai Pin will deliver a superior AI experience. With the advent of Generative AI, Humane’s Ai Pin and user experience takes excellent advantage of some of the key strengths of on-device AI and uses real-time contextual information to provide the user with exciting, personalized AI use cases,” is how the company’s Senior VP explains it, and now that it is on the runway, we can’t help but be curious to see where it will pop up next. Another one of the bags featured in the SS24 was also a CD player, giving us true flashbacks to the Walkman era. It’s clear that brands are getting creative, and we’re always being taught to expect the unexpected.




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