THE WOMENSWEAR TRENDS THAT SIGNAL A NEW FASHION ERA

It might sound dramatic, but after several seasons of safety and an obsession with quiet luxury, fashion finally feels alive again. The Spring/Summer 2026 collections marked a clear reset: a season defined by fresh creative visions and a renewed sense of excitement. With new designers stepping into major houses, from Louise Trotter’s highly praised debut at Bottega Veneta to Dario Vitale’s bold and polarizing first collection for Versace, the runways buzzed with energy, conversation, and a big shift in mood. Fashion insiders everywhere agreed: the tides are turning. Is fashion actually back?

Creatively, SS26 signalled the end of quiet luxury’s reign and the start of a louder, more expressive era that explores personal style and DNA. Designers finally embraced playfulness, colour, and personality – and we’re here for it. Below, fashion journalist Tora Northman breaks down her standout trends shaping the season ahead.

Yes, yes. Florals for spring. Groundbreaking. But this time, they genuinely just might be. This season’s blooms felt joyful, expressive and emblematic of the optimism running through the collections. At Chloé, Chemena Kamali left behind her flowy boho beige in favour of a more eclectic and feminine energy with flower prints at its core. At Balenciaga, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut collection reintroduced archival floral prints with a dramatic new edge that paid homage to Demna’s edgy and memorable era at the house. And at Loewe, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez (in their first show for the house) delivered sculptural floral dresses that became instant runway highlights

Layering is hardly new, but this season, it was elevated to an art form perfected by stylists everywhere. Designers approached it with purpose, precision and a keen eye for detail. At Miu Miu, aprons layered over tailored looks added quirky sophistication and something we haven’t seen before. BOSS leaned more into tonal layering, combining creams, browns and blacks to create visual depth and dimension. At Versace, Dario Vitale’s controversial debut might have divided critics, but his approach to styling - from double jackets to tank-over-tee pairings - was among the most talked-about moments of fashion month, and I personally loved it.

After years of restraint and neutral palettes, colour is back with a vengeance. The runways pulsed with saturated tones, proof that expressive dressing is back. Burberry reimagined its signature trench coat in vivid shades of pink and green, while Prada’s Miuccia and Raf once again proved their mastery of unexpected colour pairings. One thing about Mrs. Prada, is that she loves an unexpected colour match. Saint Laurent’s show was the talk of Paris, both for its star-studded front row (Charli XCX, Hailey Bieber and more) and for Anthony Vaccarello’s jewel-toned gowns that celebrated glamour. A true contrast to his previous season, where the masculine suit was one of the key pieces. And at Bottega Veneta, Louise Trotter’s debut was a true triumph of craftsmanship and innovation - with fiberglass jumpers and shirts in rich hues that shimmered with movement.

Spring/Summer 2026 is midriff season, baby. The bra top emerged as a hero piece – a small but powerful piece of clothing. Versace embraced ornate, gem-encrusted bras. Prada offered sculpted bandeaus beneath long coats. Balenciaga contrasted cropped tops with voluminous bottoms and Jil Sander explored architectural cut-outs. This is confidence dressing at its purest – minimal fabric, maximum effect.

Despite the runways being filled with flowers and bright colours this season, there was also a big focus on leather. Acne Studios returned to its roots with expertly cut leather trousers, biker jackets and Western boots. BOSS elevated its office classics in rich leather iterations that sit somewhere in between office siren and fashion baddie. While Maison Margiela’s Glenn Martens delivered long, structured coats in supple leather and his now-infamous logo mouthpieces. And, of course, Bottega Veneta continued to prove why it reigns supreme in craftsmanship, with Louise Trotter reimagining its iconic Intrecciato weave across bags, jackets, and even playful detailing like woven collars and pockets.