In case you missed it, it’s awards season in the fashion industry. Lyst has come out with their rankings of the year, and it’s safe to say we’re obsessed with some of the winners. Some titles to note? Miu Miu has been named brand of the year, Bella Hadid was named power dresser of the year and Barbie pink has been dubbed the trend of the year.

 
The thing is, Diesel’s rebirth is, well, surprising to say the least. Back in March 2019, the brand filed for bankruptcy, and now a mere three years later, they’re one of the hottest brands in the world… it’s not something you see every day. But there’s one man at the center of the Diesel revival, and that man is Glenn Martens.

When Martens was appointed as creative director, it marked a new dawn for the brand. Diesel had once been the pioneers of unconventional fabric and thought-provoking advertising, and the former Y/Project creative would be the one to inject this status-quo shaking element back into the brand. Perhaps, what Miuccia is to Prada, is what Martens is to Diesel. Sartorial scientist, modern-day visionary, trailblazing trend setter… really, all of these apply.

The key to the brands success? The alt-luxury appeal. Since his appointment at the brand, Martens has adopted a bold, and unique approach, which is now a clear hallmark of the brands success. For one thing, the brand is gender fluid, Martens told Vogue that “everyone should wear what they want. Our denim is genderless and the new collection itself is co-ed and fluid”, and this is something that a new gen of consumers cares more, and more about.

And that takes us to the topic we’ve all been waiting for: the 1DR bag. The ultimate piece of A-list arm candy has become – drum roll please – one of 2022’s It Bags. An It bag is a serious title – not just any bag can be an It bag, it has to be special, which the 1DR undeniably is. Martens told Vogue that, “The 1DR is straight-forward, easy, sexy, genderless and fun- which ultimately are exactly Diesel’s key values” and it’s these pillars of style that have led to the bag’s meteoric rise.

With the 1DR, many of the conventional Diesel elements are still very much there – think big branding and sturdy handles – but Martens has shaken up the formula by making the bag genderless and adding Y2Krazy detailing. The scaled-up logo is a big part of the appeal. It’s a hallmark of freedom, fashion and sex appeal. Sound appealing? We thought so.

And for one consumer in particular, the appeal has been pivotal. We’re, of course, talking about Gen Z. Ever influential on the fashion industry, it is in large part Gen Z that have helped to propel Diesel back into the fashion hall of fame. It makes sense really: it’s just their aesthetic. The brand is unapologetically unique, it’s genderless and it’s a little rough around the edges, which is exactly what the zoomers are after.

The evidence? It’s kind of endless. Look to the street stylers wearing Diesel: Julia Fox, Megan Thee Stallion and Bella Hadid, who all – in their own ways – represent a shift in the fashion industry. Their style is freer, it’s relaxed, and they don’t really care what anyone thinks. Diesel have also captured the attention of a younger generation, who weren’t around for Y2K the first time. They’re approaching the trend with fresh eyes and a renewed vigour, which is partly why Diesel looks so different this time around. Just look at TikTok, where Diesel is a consistent hot topic, (#Dieselbags currently has 17.9million views on the platform). The way pieces are being styled now is reminiscent of the early Noughties, but the energy is totally different. Pieces are raw, the styling is adventurous and the people wearing the clothes radiate BDE.

Whether you’re a consumer or a creator, our appetite for fashion is changing. This is something that Diesel is very much aware of – and the brand is maintaining its relevance by bringing something new to the table. Maybe that’s why they opened their SS23 show to the public for the first time ever. We might be going back to the Y2K aesthetic, but this is fashion that’s all about the future.

Diesel brings something new to the table. Their approach is raw, unfiltered and authentic – something we can’t get enough of right now. Whether it’s the new gen who are wearing their designs, the brand’s ethos itself or their designs, one thing’s for sure: Diesel is ushering in a new era of fashion, style and identity. It’s going to be a wild ride.