SS24: MENSWEAR TRENDS TO KNOW

SS24: MENSWEAR TRENDS TO KNOW

SS24:

MENSWEAR TRENDS TO WEAR NOW

From high-waisted trousers to utility vests, get a look into the biggest fashion trends of the SS24 season, with journalist Odunayo Ojo, aka Fashion Roadman.

WORDS: ODUNAYO OJO Photographer: JANE DOE

The SS24 menswear fashion collections showcased a variety of looks positioned to be the next big thing in menswear. Nostalgic ‘70s silhouettes have been modernised and tailoring continues to drift away from traditional slim-fitting proportions. We saw the usual oversized cuts from Balenciaga, but other brands not associated with this look have started to adopt it. Valentino, Versace and AMI Paris are examples of brands that have partaken in loosening menswear. Designers found fun ways to make their clothing aesthetically intriguing whilst maintaining the utility that most men yearn for. Prada presented a wide array of utility vests and Fendi’s collection inspired by the craftsmen that help bring our garments to life featured workwear jackets and a utility holster. Below is a guide to all the key menswear trends to invest in this season.

RELAX YOUR TAILORING

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The blueprint for men’s tailoring used to be slim-fitted proportions. However, with comfort and ease of wear at the forefront of fashion discourse, it comes as no surprise that over the last few seasons, silhouettes have gradually become a lot wider and relaxed. Valentino, a brand formally associated with Italian traditional tailoring due to Valentino Garavani’s affinity with slimmer fitting pinstripe suits, has seen its tailoring silhouette gradually adopt looser-fitting proportions. AMI Paris is another example of a brand that has embraced a boxier and wider look focused on comfort. In their SS24 collection, large-lapelled oversized blazers were paired with wide trousers for a more smart-casual look. Bottega Veneta’s tailoring proved that the wider look is suitable for more formal occasions by pairing leather boots and their signature intrecciato derbies with wide trousers, ties and a wide array of oversized blazers and coats. Amiri also joined in on the fun, showcasing a blast of pastel colours in their sporty luxe looks. All things considered, whether in a casual or more formal style, we can expect tailoring to loosen up for many seasons to come.

THE RETURN OF ‘70S FASHION

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What goes around must come back around. A saying has never been truer when discussing the inherent nature of fashion. Fashion trends are cyclical and, as such, you can always expect a blast from the past as far as style goes. Next season, ‘70s fashion is back in all its glory, but with a modern twist. Rick Owens presented high-waisted trousers cinched in but with a less aggressive bell bottom than most would remember from the ‘70s. Jonathan Anderson’s SS24 Loewe followed a similar train of thought with high-waisted trousers that could almost be mistaken for a straight fit if looking at them from the wrong angle. ‘70s high-waisted trousers are here to stay, only this time, the bell bottoms aren’t as ridiculous.

ARE YOUR SHORTS EVEN SHORT ENOUGH?

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Proof that fashion reflects society and is influenced by current affairs worldwide. The pandemic accelerated the gradual rise of athleisure and comfortable clothing as more people started to work remotely and valued comfort over aesthetics. In response, trousers have slowly become more expansive with every season that passes. Jil Sander had a multitude of wide trousers in their last collection, including a nice purple pair. Diesel's last show featured wide and comfy joggers. Fendi's beautiful brown leather trousers turned heads, and Kenzo brought us an excellent range of Japanese-style denim.

UTILITY IS EVERYTHING

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Utilitarian fashion has always had its imprint in men’s style. From military-inspired coats and rugged boots that can tackle any terrain to large, practical bags. We live in a world where people wear sophisticated Gore-Tex pro jackets to protect them from the light wind during their short city commute. It’s quite clearly overkill but we all love the idea of our clothes being able to do more than is required. Many brands had themes of workwear and utility in their collections. Prada’s interpretation came in the form of utility vests and shirts with more pockets than one could possibly need. Valentino’s utility vests came in sleeker fabrics, for a dressier occasion, and 1017 ALYX 9SM’s black sleeveless jacket is a more suitable option for the windy summer days.

SUNS OUT, GUNS OUT

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Extreme hot weather doesn’t mean the wardrobe is relegated to plain vests. This season, many brands presented a lot of classier options on the runway as well as more fun alternatives to a vest in the summer. Burberry’s clean black waistcoat paired with wide trousers and heeled black shoes possesses the ability to be worn casually day to day or to a fancy event on a hot summer’s day. The same could be said about Yohji Yamamoto’s SS24 black waistcoat with grey detailing or Dolce&Gabbana’s crisp white cropped jacket.

WIDE-LEG TROUSERS ARE FOR YOU

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As mentioned earlier, men’s tailoring has been gradually loosening up (both in the literal and figurative sense). It isn’t just men’s suits that are getting wider; casual styles of men’s trousers are slowly becoming more relaxed too. There’s a sweet spot; not too wide that you’re completely swimming in fabric and not so tight your legs don’t have any breathing space. Due to the continued relevance of this trend, brands have mastered the right balance. Amiri created a multitude of colourful options for their SS24 collection. Y-3’s athletic-focused black trousers allow for ease of movement and maximum comfort and Balenciaga’s super wide trousers worn by fashion critic Cathy Horyn are one of the brand’s many on-the-money wide trousers presented in recent collections.

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