AW26:
From kohl drenched waterlines to windswept '60s hair, the Autumn/Winter 2026 runways proved beauty is getting a little more expressive again. These are the looks set to define the season ahead.WORDS: TWIGGY JALLOH
After several seasons dominated by ultra polished skin and barely-there makeup, this season's shows introduced something slightly more rebellious. Eyeliner was smudged rather than perfectly drawn, hair moved naturally instead of sitting rigidly in place and glitter appeared in flashes across eyelids, cheekbones - and even through hair. Importantly, none of it felt theatrical for the sake of it.
Across Paris, Milan, London and New York, beauty reinforced the mood of each collection. At Vivienne Westwood, kohl rimmed eyes added a sense of punk romance; sleek ponytails mirrored the balance of strength and softness at Victoria Beckham, meanwhile the glimmers of glitter and chrome were a welcomed addition at Chanel.
The result? Beauty trends that felt expressive, yet, surprisingly wearable. Autumn/Winter 2026’s beauty looks are about to have major off the runway moments.
If one makeup look dominated the season, it was the return of smudged eyeliner. No, it was not the hyper smoky eye of the early 2010s - instead, this season, artists leaned into liner that looked imperfectly perfect and deliberately lived in.
At Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood in Paris, eyes were rimmed with inky black kohl pressed deep into the waterline and softly smudged around the lash line - perfectly echoing the house’s punk heritage. While Comme des Garçons decided to push the look further with several models walking the runway with heavy black pigment circling the entire eye, creating a dramatic gaze that truly anchored the collection’s eclectic sculptural silhouettes.
In London, David Koma approached the trend with a more refined hand. Liner was concentrated through the waterline to intensify the eyes, while the rest of the look remained minimal.
At Givenchy, Lucia Pieroni’s smudged liner look contrasted beautifully with the collection’s vivid colours, grounding the looks with a darker beauty moment. While leaning fully into 90s nostalgia, Gucci paired their smoky eyes with high-shine lacquered lips that felt editorial yet wearable.
Even Hermès, known for their understated beauty, embraced the trend their way. In place of jet black kohl, artists opted for a soft grey wash along the lash line to subtly define the eyes without disrupting the house’s infamous elegant restraint. For real life wear, the appeal is obvious. A soft kohl pencil pressed along the waterline and gently smudged with a fingertip instantly creates the same effortless effect. Just remember, precision is not the goal here - a slightly imperfect finish is exactly what makes the look feel the way it should.
The dominant hairstyle of the season, the low ponytail. Sleek, minimal and quietly elegant - but this time with a slight edge.
At Victoria Beckham in Paris, hairstylist Anthony Turner created one of the most memorable versions of the look. There, hair was parted deeply to one side before being gathered loosely at the nape of the neck. Turner made sure to keep the crown smooth while the lengths retained a natural softness, creating a style that felt polished without all of the control it usually holds. He described the intention as effortless and feminine, “almost as if the models had already been to the after party”.
A similarly refined interpretation appeared at Issey Miyake. Working with Dyson tools, hairstylist Holli Smith created slick low ponytails with controlled volume and luminous shine. Its clean silhouette mirrored the beautiful architectural precision of the collection.
Jean Paul Gaultier introduced a subtle twist - styling ponytails slightly off centre to create an asymmetrical effect that added a little more personality to the minimalist look.
The key takeaway is refreshingly simple: a strong parting, smooth roots and a relaxed ponytail instantly delivers understated runway elegance. All you have to do is do it your way.
At the very opposite end of the spectrum, several designers embraced big, textured hair inspired by the glitz and glamour of the 1960s.
At Vivienne Westwood, hairstylist Ramona Eschbach looked to iconic actress Romy Schneider for inspiration. Hair featured very low side partings, backcombed roots and brushed out curls that created height and movement, while maintaining softness around the hairline. The result felt nostalgic but not overly styled - glamorous tresses that still moved naturally.
At Chloé, Anthony Turner took a more organic approach. Hair was styled to look as though it had been lifted by the wind. There he used blasts of air to create flyaways and an airy texture. The finished result was light, fluffy and beautifully undone.
Meanwhile at Ujoh, softly textured curls framed the face with relaxed elegance, reinforcing this season's shift away from hyper-controlled styling. Volume is back, but it is softer, looser and far less rigid than before.
The runway will never tire from healthy helping of blush. The effortless addition that somehow makes a difference to the most unadorned of faces.
At Ujoh, cheeks were softly flushed to create the illusion of natural warmth. Skin preparation played a key role backstage with Shu Uemura ensuring complexions looked fresh and with a slight luminosity, with cheek complimenting strong lips. In Ujoh’s own words, the aim was to find the balance “between élégance and disorder,” there, “a new silhouette emerges”.
Simone Rocha approached the look with a romantic sensibility with delicate pink tones swept across the cheeks to complement the brand’s soft, feminine silhouettes.
At Annie’s Ibiza, flushed cheeks appeared alongside both bold lips and bare skin, proving just how well the trend works across multiple makeup styles. Similar glowing complexions were spotted at Miu Miu and Valentino, where fresh skin and subtle blush added a youthful energy to the runway.
The secret to recreating the look lies in placement. Applying blush slightly higher across the cheekbones instantly lifts the face while maintaining that sought-after natural, healthy glow.
Sometimes the smallest details really do create the biggest impact. Across several shows this season, makeup artists added subtle accents to the inner corner of the eye, instantly brightening the face. At Bottega Veneta, tiny flecks of glitter were placed delicately at the tear duct, catching the light as models walked the runway. While Gucci added a soft pop of colour to the same area, enhancing smoky eyes with a quick flash of brightness.
The technique also appeared at Dior, where subtle champagne highlights illuminated the inner corners of the eyes, adding dimension without overwhelming the rest of the makeup.
It is a tiny detail, but one that transforms the face, instantly. A dab of shimmer in the inner corner and eyes appear brighter, wider and more awake.
Glitter returned this Autumn/Winter, but this time with a refined twist. At Diesel, eyelids were coated in a bold sparkle that perfectly matched the brand’s rebellious and experimental energy. The effect sparkled under the runway lights, creating a beauty moment that was truly impossible to ignore.
Vivienne Westwood also embraced the shine, layering it across eyelids creating a beautifully textured, almost celestial effect.
At Chanel, the look took on a more poetic turn. Fine glitter and chrome was combed through hair and washed lightly across the eyelids. Meanwhile at Coperni, shimmer was used sparingly across lids and cheekbones creating an otherworldly futuristic glow.
It's easy to go overboard with this trend, so it translates best through subtlety. A shimmer shadow across the eyelids or an iridescent highlighter along the cheekbones can deliver the same luminous effect without the post-party glitter fallout.
For those who prefer something sharper than a smudged eye, graphic eyeliner delivered one of the season’s most striking beauty statements.
At Moschino, legendary makeup artist Inge Grognard created bold, exaggerated liner shapes that framed the eyes in sweeping black curves. The look felt playful and slightly surreal, echoing the brand’s theatrical spirit while proving that eyeliner can be just as expressive as any accessory on the runway. Elsewhere, graphic liner took on a more futuristic edge.At Mugler, sharp elongated wings stretched dramatically toward the temples, sculpting the eyes with architectural precision.
The trend also surfaced in subtler forms across the season. At Dior, Peter Philips experimented with elongated flicks that extended just beyond the outer corner of the eye, creating a lifted, almost aerodynamic shape. Meanwhile at Prada, Lynsey Alexander explored modern interpretations of the classic cat eye, refining the liner into precise strokes that framed the eyes with quiet intensity.
What makes a graphic liner particularly compelling is its versatility. On the runway it can appear bold and experimental, but off it, the same idea can translate through something as simple as a sharper flick or a slightly extended wing.
Brows stepped confidently into the spotlight this season, evolving from a finishing touch into a statement feature in their own right.
At Richard Quinn in London, bleached brows created an almost ethereal effect that shifted the entire focus of the face. The absence of pigment softened the expression and allowed dramatic eyes and luminous skin to take centre stage, a technique frequently used by makeup artists to create a more otherworldly runway presence.
Simone Rocha approached the idea from a more decorative angle. Models wore delicate eye rings that framed the brow and orbital area like jewellery, transforming the space around the brows into an accessory moment that felt both romantic and subversive.
At Dries Van Noten, the effect was more textural. Feathered accents were placed at the inner corners of the brows, creating a sculptural detail that blurred the line between makeup and adornment. The result was striking yet surprisingly soft, adding intrigue without overwhelming the rest of the beauty look.
Off the runway, the look can be less extreme but equally as exciting. Brushing brows upwards for a feathered texture, softening colour slightly or experimenting with decorative accents and faux accessories can introduce the same spirit of individuality without the commitment of a full runway transformation.