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• PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES & JEREMY FRENCH

Back in early spring, the words ‘quiet luxury’ started to enter our conversations. The antithesis to the OTT logomania and incessant Barbiecore that had dominated our IG feeds, the quiet luxury aesthetic was about a more laidback approach to fashion. Think Celiné (with accent) circa 2018. Think Sienna Miller in Anatomy of a Scandal, dressed in a Stella McCartney cape. Think Gwynnie in solid gold jewellery and cream knitwear as she took to the stand. Or Succession’s Shiv, in a rotation of polo necks, tailored trousers and grey suits.

The quiet luxury movement was all about IYKYK designer pieces – like Bottega Veneta’s jeans and flannel shirts, that on closer inspection were crafted from the finest leather, or Khaite’s cult Scarlet cardigan, identified only by its subtle tailoring; a slightly nipped in waist and fluted, long sleeves – and a welcome return of elevated basics. Case in point: everyone’s obsession with Mary Janes, ballet flats and loafers. The unwavering appearance of blazers, slouchy jeans and tank tops. Not to mention the dominance of classic leather bags in simple shapes; think Loewe’s Puzzle bag or Bottega Veneta’s Sardine.

With the final series of Succession and Gwyneth Paltrow’s court case dominating the zeitgeist, the aesthetic reached fever pitch. Suddenly, our feeds were awash with blacks, creams and beige. And the AW23 runways were filled with fifty shades of grey; from Miu Miu’s layer-upon-layer of hoodies and blazers in differing shades to Prada’s grey skirts, knitwear and tailored coats and Saint Laurent’s new take on workwear, everything from slate to stone to pewter featured, heavily.

When it comes to quiet luxury brands, the aforementioned Bottega Veneta and Khaite have exploded, alongside The Row, Toteme and Jerry Lorenzo’s Fear of God, while the likes of Max Mara and Longchamp have experienced a fresh crop of fans, with the latter landing itself on Lyst’s coveted Hottest Products List for Q2 of 2023 thanks to their bestselling Le Pilage bag.

Even Gucci, the usually loud-and-proud logo-clad brand, embraced a cleaner vibe for AW23, with champagne-hued knitted dresses and boxy blazers dominating their runway. While the pre-cursor to their highly anticipated SS24 show saw model Daria Werbowy, the face of the 2010s minimalist movement, come out of retirement for the brand’s Marina Chain Jewellery collection wearing nothing but the jewels.

So, why quiet luxury? And why now? A reaction to the current financial climate, we all wanted to invest in classics that would stand the test of time, and brands answered by creating insider pieces that became low-key status symbols. Pieces that would work in multiple ways, at multiple times, flexing across events and throughout our wardrobe. Call it stealth wealth. Call it quiet luxury. Call it pure common sense. Whatever you’re coining it, it’s had the fashion world in a chokehold.

Fast forward to the SS24 shows and there were two clear fashion tribes on the streets. The understated quiet luxury followers – of course – and the reaction. It’s polar opposite: big, bright, bold, look-at-me dressers. Things had moved on since Barbiemania took a hold earlier this summer and hot pink looks were replaced with larger-than-life silhouettes, chaotic accessories and texture, so much texture.

According to the cult Instagram and TikTok account @databutmakeitfashion, quiet luxury is moving out. They reported a 7%+ increase in the popularity of logos compared to last season and it seems after a palette cleanser of neutrals, a large portion of the street style set were going all in on statement pieces. At Burberry, there were knitted duck hats and balloon-inspired ensembles on the front row. Elsewhere, voluminous neon dresses, frothy skirts and clashing prints were on show.

And when it came to beauty? The two opposing aesthetics were played out in one face. Eyelashes were dressed with feathers and ribbons, as seen on singer Griff, but skin was left clean, fresh and simple. An all-in-one blending of the trends. A minimalist-meets-maximalist merge.

As for quiet luxury? It was still there, both on and off the catwalk. Khaite’s NYFW show showcased beautifully cut trench coats, to-the-floor dresses and loose-fit blazers. Daniel Lee’s second Burberry show saw the return of the iconic trench, but with a 2024 spin. And JW Anderson’s collection focused on relaxed, understated pieces, from green cargos to knitted vests.

Meanwhile, Milan kicked things off with Glen Marten’s latest Diesel show. A riot of fabrics, prints, slashed fabrics and the brand’s big D front and centre was everything. While Prada was all about clean, minimal fits pared with brogues, socks and pops of colour. Floating shirts, soft shades and lots of headscarves.

So as the two fashion sets set up camp; which way are you planning to fall? We say, why choose? Invest in classic pieces that you’ll go back to season after season, think a camel coat or staple white shirt. Pepper in some statement accents, like Vivienne Westwood’s megawatt gold platforms or Balenciaga’s adorable fluffy Hourglass. Make it your own. Make it work for you.