FASHION WEEK EDIT: GREAT BRITISH STYLE

FASHION WEEK EDIT: GREAT BRITISH STYLE

FASHION WEEK EDIT:

GREAT BRITISH STYLE

Stella McCartney, Burberry and JW Anderson: this is what British fashion looks like in 2024.

WORDS: INDIA Wickremeratne AND MARNI ROSE MCFALL Photographer: JANE DOE

British fashion is a lot of things. Classic, luxury, filled with heritage. But conventional? Never. At the forefront of creating new trends and defining eras, it’s not afraid to shake up tradition. Back in 1914, the Burberry trench coat made history as a first-of-its-kind garment, made with ground-breaking materials. In the 1970s, Vivienne Westwood arrived ready to change the industry forever with her designs that defined a generation of subcultures. In the 1990s, Alexander McQueen’s provocative approach to fashion smashed up the status quo. In the 2000s, Stella McCartney’s pioneering approach to responsible fashion changed the game. And by the 2010s, brands like Aries and David Koma began making an impact with streetwear and partywear that was made for a new generation. It doesn’t matter what decade, or what designer: everyone has been influenced by British fashion.

To celebrate London Fashion Week, which turns 40 this year, we’re exploring what Great British fashion looks like in 2024. Take it from us, these brands know how to get dressed and how to have fun doing it. This is fashion that feels free, taking cues from its heritage and injecting a whole new kind of energy. British style? You’ve got our attention.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Vivienne Westwood needs no introduction. The queen of punk redefined fashion over her incredible 50-year career. Her boutique, SEX, which she shared with Sex Pistol’s manager Malcolm McLaren, created looks that defined the punk movement, and Westwood was the first to create a relationship between a brand and a subculture. Her designs merged French couture with Saville Row tailoring. The result? Subversive styles cut with traditional English heritage aesthetics. And they’re just as relevant today as they were 50 years ago. Think lots of leather, high-energy tartan and renaissance-style corsets. Following her death in 2022, her brand has continued with her husband Andreas Kronthaler at the helm, drawing from the late legend’s own wardrobe, rebellion, and style to inspire his debut collections.

JW ANDERSON

Bright, playful and experimental, JW Anderson knows how to deliver. The past year has been big for the Northern Irish designer as his fun-loving designs have been setting the fashion world on fire. From his cheeky, sheer-tights-no-pants agenda, to a return to the playground in his SS24 plasticine hoodies, JW Anderson is having a lot of fun right now. To date, his legion of celebrity fans includes the likes of Emily Ratajkowski and Charlie XCX, and this year we’ve seen It girl of the moment, Ayo Edebiri, join the ranks. With Edebiri’s quick wit and creative spirit, it’s no surprise that these two have hit it off. A match made in fashion heaven if you ask us. Anderson’s next move? It can’t be predicted. But we’re certain we’ll love it.

BURBERRY

Big things are happening at Burberry. Daniel Lee’s debut gave the brand a contemporary refresh while paying homage to its heritage, and the last year has seen viral moment after viral moment. Lee sparked chatter with his “ludicrously capacious” Succession tote, collaborated with North London footballers Bukayo Saka and Son Heung-min, and the ‘Burberry Street’ campaign saw the brand set up pop ups in local institutions around the world, starting with Normans, a cult greasy spoon famed for its fry-ups and fish finger sandwiches. The brand recently unveiled their Lunar New Year campaign, turning their iconic houndstooth checks red to ring in the Year of the Dragon. Their Spring 2024 campaign featured the likes of Iris Law, Bukayo Saka and Adwoa Aboah; it doesn’t get more quintessentially British than that.

STELLA MCCARTNEY

Stella McCartney has always been ahead of the game. Rock royalty, she’s long been a pioneer of a more ethical approach to fashion, creating conscious, environmentally minded pieces that you really want to wear. Already a trailblazer in engineering responsible fabrics, and having been awarded a CBE, this year McCartney was named one of TIME 100’s most influential climate leaders in business and has long been defining some of the industry’s biggest trends. Think naked dressing and the Y2K revival. And as of late? The brand has experimented with new fabric technologies in plant-based leather and seaweed fibres for SS24, collaborated with Iris Law on a nostalgia-dripping campaign on the slopes for adidas by Stella, and re-introduced the iconic Falabella bag with BioPuff, a down replacement, for pre-fall. For this upcoming season it’s safe to say we can expect even more pioneering ventures into responsible tech, It girl moments, and viral pieces.

ARIES

One of the coolest brands in London right now? It’s a big claim, but it’s one that Aries has earned. Founded by Sofia Prantera in 2010, Aries has established itself as one of the hottest names on the streetwear scene. The appeal? Aries was made for the underdog. The brand has reached cult status thanks - in no small part - to its signature attitude. Think low-key, punk cool. From the opening of the brand’s first brick-and-mortar store, to their collab with streetwear giant Reebok and the launch of No Problemo, Aries has cemented itself in London’s fashion scene as the must-have uniform for pints and chit-chat with good people. Their ready-to-wear styles are a non-negotiable in your wardrobe, from their elevated leisurewear to their signature scarves and iconic knits.

DAVID KOMA

High energy, feminine and dripping in sex appeal: these are the pillars of David Koma’s designs. The Georgian-born designer founded his namesake brand in 2009, launching at London Fashion Week as a Central Saint Martin’s graduate. Since then, the brand has achieved It status thanks to its body-contouring silhouettes, form-fitting dresses and elevated LBDs; following in the tradition of brands like Mugler and Laquan Smith to become a partywear heavyweight. And 2024 has – already - been a big year for the brand. Their resort collection made waves with sequined fabrics and elongated trains on mermaid-esque skirts. And their pre-autumn showing? It paid homage to Truman Capote’s ‘Swans’ of ‘60s New York – just in time for the return of Ryan Murphy’s star-studded Feud. With Beyonce, J-Lo, and Olivia Rodrigo as just a handful of its fans, the KOMA Club just keeps growing, with no sign of slowing down.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Into statement-making fashion? Alexander McQueen is the one. The late designer, who earned a reputation as the ultimate bad boy of the fashion industry, got the world talking. And in 2024, his eponymous label continues to make waves. Gritty, raw and bold, Alexander McQueen has always felt rebellious. Provocative and experimental, this is a brand that doesn’t play by anyone’s rules. Archival pieces like the notorious Bumster pants are just as relevant today as they were in the early ‘90s. This season marks the first show under the creative direction of Sean McGirr, after Sarah Burton departed the brand last season. McGirr’s appointment marks the beginning of a new era for the brand, as Gianfilippo Testa, the CEO of Alexander McQueen, explained to Harpers Bazaar, McGirr’s arrival will “bring a powerful creative language to Alexander McQueen while building on its unique heritage”. McGirr will show his debut collection for the brand at Paris Fashion Week While we await the brand’s next move, right now we’re as obsessed with their signature new-romantic, goth-core dresses as ever. Some key pieces to add to your collection? Think heavy silver jewellery, deconstructed leather jackets, and statement-making spike heels.

CRAIG GREEN

London-born designer Craig Green has quickly established himself as one of the most important voices in men’s fashion. Known for their avant-garde aesthetic, reimagined workwear and signature It knits, in 2023 the brand is celebrating their ten-year anniversary. And having become one of the biggest cult brands in the biz, it’s safe to say, there’s big cause for celebration. To date, Green has been awarded British Menswear Designer of the year not one, not two, but three times, and recently earned an MBE for his services to the fashion industry. This season, we can’t get enough of their distressed knitted vests, quilted work jackets and oversized trousers.

REPRESENT

Founded in 2011 by brothers George and Michael Heaton, Represent has taken the world of luxury streetwear by storm. Their mission? As George Heaton explained in an interview with FLANNELS, is “to build the biggest brand in the world”. No big deal. To date, the brand is known for it’s cult following, pop-up experiences and mammoth queues. And the brand has more than established itself as a leading voice in the industry. The Heatons have released an archival story book, their much viewed ‘Behind The Brand’ YouTube series, a capsule collection with FLANNELS, hosted a triumphant collaboration with MARCHON and Puresport to explore “using fitness as a tool to manifest successful business,” and their now infamous Run Clubs. When we say huge moves? We mean it. This season we can’t get enough of their graphic tees, big energy varsity jackets and fresh trainers.

PIFERI

Big news. Piferi - who are re-writing the rules of party-proof footwear with their responsible designs – has recently landed at FLANNELS. Thanks to their innovative tech, timeless craftsmanship and seamlessly on trend styles, the brand has established itself as an essential to any It girl’s wardrobe. To date, their roster of celebrity fans includes the likes of Dua Lipa, Ice Spice and Billie Eilish. Sounds like a party, where’s our invite? Expect mules, sandals and heels in sculptural designs and high-shine finishes. All that’s missing is the dancefloor.

GBADEBO

Haven’t you heard? The ‘90s are here to stay. Thanks to one of the hottest new names on the streetwear scene, GBADEBO. Founded by Kemi Gbadebo – who went on to win BBC’s The Drop - at her parent’s kitchen table in lockdown, Gbadebo’s retro influences have captured our attention. The MO? “To breathe new life into ‘90s streetwear. Make it bold, make it fun again,” as Gbadebo explained in an interview with FLANNELS. We love their patchwork denim, utility vests, and contemporary take on ‘90s streetwear sets. But the brand doesn’t stop there. In the last year, Gbadebo spoke at the Houses of Parliament about responsible fashion, collaborated with the likes of adidas and The North Face, and hosted a plethora of community workshops. One of the most exciting brands in the UK right now, GBADEBO is one to watch.

RELATED ARTICLES

SPRING 24:

THIS IS NEW LUXURY

Places to go. People to see. Looks to be seen in. The 2024 hustle is on.

READ MORE

IN PROFILE:

KEMI GBADEBO

Responsible fashion, The Drop and what she hopes will be her legacy: it’s time to get to know Kemi Gbadebo.

READ MORE

GOOD INTENTIONS:

WITH GEORGE HEATON AND OLLIE MARCHON

The founders of Represent and MARCHON sat down with journalist India Bailey to talk the movement revolution, creativity, and their capsule collection with Puresport.

READ MORE