AW23: WOMENSWEAR TRENDS TO KNOW
WORDS: TORA NORTHMAN Photographer: JANE DOE
It feels as if the year has only just started, yet we’ve managed to make it through not one, but two fashion months to get us ready for the upcoming AW23 season. From New York to Paris, we’ve seen plenty of shakeups in the industry. Jeremy Scott just left Moschino, Gucci appointed a new creative director, Sabato de Sarno, and Daniel Lee made his Burberry debut. Needless to say, there were a lot of things to keep track of – especially when it comes to trends.
If you’ve been looking to add plenty of sequins and glitter to your wardrobe, or perhaps making the statement blazer part of your weekly rotation, you’re in luck. We’ve rounded up some of our favourite trends from the AW23 runways, as well as some of the best looks from Diesel to Miu Miu.
Move Over Minis, It’s All About The Long Skirts
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The mini skirt has competition. After seeing skirts get shorter and shorter thanks to Miu Miu’s viral set last year, we’re adding a few inches to our hem for AW23.
Whether it is the floor-length, wedding-inspired skirts at Prada, or the perfectly cut knee-length leather skirts at Saint Laurent, it is clear that we’re ditching our minis in favour for something a bit more weather-appropriate next winter. Whether it is a party skirt or your everyday uniform, consider miniskirts for AW23 a thing of the past.
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It’s truly the year of sheer. The material has always been a favourite for brands both on and off the runway, but recently, we’ve been seeing plenty of sheer materials used to layer and build dimension to a look. And let’s not forget about the sheer tights.
At Gucci, bold tights in purple and red were worn with sheer skirts and sequin overlays, and at Miu Miu, they were worn together with sheer skirts, showing only a hint of the label’s new logo underwear. Lastly, at Diesel, Glenn Martens put emphasis on sheer dresses, playing with shapes and materials to create a “barely there” look that we will definitely be seeing more of in seasons to come. It is all about giving a hint of what’s hiding underneath this autumn.
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Lately, plenty of brands have taken a more minimal approach. For AW23 however, it seems as if we’re making a return to eye-catching sequins and bold sparkles. Maximalism, here we come.
It goes without saying that Julien Dossena’s Paco Rabanne has become the go-to for party-ready pieces, and this season we saw structured skirts made from metallic shards (imagine the sound it makes as it moves, you’ll be the life of the party) sequin sets, and plenty of opulent silver and gold. It remains to be seen whether these pieces will make their way into everyday wear, but we’re guaranteed to see them across the red carpet as well as at the club.
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This season, it felt as if designers experimented more with conceptual pieces, and unsurprisingly, Jonathan Anderson continues to pave the way. At JW Anderson, a leather jumpsuit designed to look like Tesco’s signature bag (inspired by Michael Clark’s archive) for life and a T-shirt with a penis print designed by Clark on it acted as a reminder that fashion doesn’t always have to be that serious - we can have some fun along the way, too.
At Loewe, trompe l'oeil reigned supreme, but one look got plenty of attention. The structured dress that looked like something you’d see made for a Polly Pocket or LEGO figure closed the show, emphasising the ever-growing trend of the cartoonification of fashion. In previous seasons, we’ve seen everything from trainers with real grass growing from them, to pixelated tops, and it’s only a matter of time before more brands jump on the bandwagon. When dresses are printed to look like a trench coat, anything can happen, and this season proved that we’ve got a big trend on our hands.
Statement Blazers Are Here To Stay
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A trend that’s been recurring for a couple of seasons now is the statement blazer, and when Saint Laurent showcased its AW23 collection, we instantly had the trend on our radar. The powerful shoulders and the immaculate tailoring set the tone for what might have been one of Anthony Vaccarello’s best collections yet, and it received plenty of praise from fashion enthusiasts world-wide.
At Gucci we also saw the blazer have its moment, dressed down with a pair of jeans and as part of an oversized suit. Of course, Bottega Veneta also showed off its pristine tailoring by sending multiple chic suit jackets down the runway, both as part of its womenswear and menswear offering. Basically, a good blazer is the best investment one can make, and this season proves that they come in all shapes, sizes and materials – there’s a blazer for every occasion. And no, it might not be a new trend, but it is a trend that certainly lives on forever.
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